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Who could resist a place called Darling? This country town on the West Coast lives up to its name, too, with its quirky and artsy artisanal vibe, historic roots and natural beauty. Many know it as the home of renowned political satirist and anti-apartheid activist Pieter-Dirk Uys (and his alter-ego Evita Bezuidenhout), who renovated its run-down station into a small theatre; others are drawn to it every spring when the fields are carpeted in wildflowers, rare indigenous bulbs make a showing, and arum lilies line the quiet country roads for as far as the eye can see. However, it’s worth a visit at any time of year: there’s wine to taste at a number of notable estates, a pumping brewery, a San cultural centre, and a network of mountain-biking trails that take you into its rolling hills.
So take the hour’s drive from Cape Town to slow down, explore, taste and enjoy. Here are our top 10 reasons to visit.
1. The satirist: Evita Se Perron
Part museum, part theatre and all-round iconic landmark, Evita se Perron is satirist Pieter-Dirk Uys’s visionary passion project which, when it opened at the disused railway station back in 1996, put the town of Darling on the map. It’s filled to the brim with Afrikaner and apartheid-era memorabilia and kitsch (it’s called the Museum Nauseam), as well as art and photos, with tongue-in-cheek, sculpture-filled “Boerrassic Park” out in the backyard. The onsite Swartland Kitchen bakery and tasting room offers a rusk and cookie tasting with a hot beverage of your choice. Or simply order the koeksisters.
Good to know Pieter-Dirk Uys, aka Tannie Evita Bezuidenhout, does lunchtime shows on weekends.
Cost R50 (tasting)
Opening times Daily, 10am – 4pm
Contact 066 391 9481, events@evitaseperron.com
Where to find it 8 Arcadia Street, Darling
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2. The flowers: Tienie Versfeld Wildflower Reserve
Just outside town, this precious 22-hectare reserve – created on a donated portion of Marthinus ‘Tienie’ Versfeld’s farm and managed by Kirstenbosch – protects some of the last remaining renosterveld and a seasonal wetland. On this small patch of land, around 10% of the Cape Floral Kingdom can be found. A network of paths crisscross the landscape, where you can tick off poppy-flowered sundews and Darling “wine cups”, butterfly flowers, chandelier lilies, satin flowers, lachenalia, chincherinchees and spring-flowering bulbs. Along with the blooms, there is also prolific birdlife and marshlands. You can simply park on the side of the road and enter.
Good to know Duckitt Orchid Nursery (off the R307) is also worth a visit – open on the first Saturday of the month from May to November; browse and enjoy tea/coffee and pancakes.
Opening times Daylight hours
Cost Free
Contact 022 492 3361
Where to find it On the R315 to Yzerfontein
3. The beer: Darling Brew
Darling Brew (recently voted the Best in the Cape) has been making craft beers since 2010, and in keeping with its environmental ethos, the range is inspired by wildlife – from zebras, rhinos and cheetahs to honey bees and butterflies – in various styles (lager, pilsner, IPA, weissbier, etc), and including special seasonal beers with bold flavours. There are also shandies and “bombs” (sparkling hopped non-alcoholic coolers). Enjoy a choice of tasting flights (four beers) in The Tasteroom, with views over the entire operation, then tuck into tasty pub-style dishes and tapas (made with locally sourced ingredients) and your choice of beer or drink. It’s a pitstop for hearty breakfasts, too, and there is outdoor seating plus a jungle gym and menu for kids.
Good to know Tours of the brewery can be booked 48 hours in advance. Look out for their special events, including music festivals, mountain-bike races and trail running.
Cost R60 (tasting)
R75 (guided tour including tasting)
Opening times Monday – Thursday, 8am – 5pm
Friday + Saturday, 9am – 6pm
Sunday, 9am – 5pm
Contact 076 092 8313, shop@darlingbrew.co.za
Where to find it 48 Caledon Street, Darling
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4. The MTB scene: Living Colour
Food, fitness and fun combine on Wolwefontein Farm, a natural playground for the whole family. Another venture from mountain-biking fanatic Kevin Wood (who co-founded Darling Brew), it’s the place to come for riding, running, hiking or walking the trails (with your dogs, if you like). Afterwards, relax at the barn restaurant – or the West Coast Smokehouse on weekends – and enjoy farm-to-fork comfort food while the kids play (ziplines, a Jack Sparrow jungle gym, pump tracks, water features and more). There’s a bar for craft beer, wine or cocktails, and marvellous milkshakes. The deli sells scrumptious treats to take home, or to add some pizzazz to a picnic you can enjoy onsite.
Good to know Kevin offers guided mountain-bike rides around Darling on weekends, on private trails; it includes coffee, rusks, a hot shower, lunch and a beer or glass of wine. Living Colour is also the venue for the Darling parkrun every Saturday morning.
Cost R60 (MTB day permit)
Guided ride: R590
Opening times Tuesday – Friday, 9am – 4pm
Saturday, 7am – 4pm; Sunday, 8am – 4pm
Smokehouse: Saturday + Sunday, 11am – 4pm
Contact 081 723 7236, info@livingcolour.co.za
Where to find it R315, 5km from Darling
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5. The San Heritage Centre: !Khwa ttu
Georgia East, left image
The story of southern Africa’s First People (and humankind’s origins) is told with a journey through three buildings – one, Way of the San, is an evocative, purpose-built space that immerses visitors in the cosmology, spirituality, philosophy and lifestyle of hunter-gatherer culture. Other exhibits cover archaeology, rock art and contemporary San art, and the painful history of colonialism. The centre was created in collaboration with San communities in Namibia, Botswana and the Northern Cape, and is staffed by San people. You can explore on your own or join one of the 45-minute, themed tours that cover tracking, food, the “veld pharmacy”, spring wildflower walks and more.
Good to know !Khwa ttu has a great restaurant with a foraging-focused menu, outdoor trails for hiking or biking (BYO bike), a nature reserve with game drives, and accommodation.
Cost R100 (self-guided), R210 (guided tour)
Opening times Daily, 9am – 5pm (last entry 4.15pm)
Contact 022 492 2998, info@khwattu.org
Where to find it R27 (West Coast Road) at Yzerfontein/Darling (R315) intersection
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6. The wine: Darling Wine Route
As the gateway to the Swartland, Darling has a small but notable clutch of independent producers – and has become known for its superior sauvignon blanc, in particular. Proximity to the ocean, strandveld fynbos and granite soils create a distinctive terroir. You’ll find Ormonde right in the centre of town, or head south on the R315 or R307 for Groote Post, Cloof and others. See our top recommendations here.
7. The Olives: Darling Olives
Olive chocolate salami, throubes (sun-dried olives), olive biltong, labneh, antipasto… A mouthwatering array of products based on olives await visitors to Alexanderfontein Farm, home of the Basson family who started their olive business in 1999. The white-walled buildings and stark surroundings evoke the Mediterranean, or a mission station in California (where mission olives originated). Sit down for a guided tasting experience, then browse the shelves packed with take-home treats (which also include soaps, lip balms and body butters). Children will love the friendly pot-bellied pigs and the farmyard playground.
Good to know A small selection of wine is available to taste with the olive products.
Cost R65 per tasting + R70 for groups of more than 10 people
Opening times Monday – Friday, 9am – 4pm
Saturday, 9am – 1pm
Contact 022 492 3171, taste@darlingolives.co.za
Where to find it R315, 3km from Darling
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8. The Festivals
When spring arrives, Darling puts on her party clothes.
- Darling Wildflower Show: Established in 1915, and held annually on the third weekend of September, this stunning, landscaped indoor exhibition shows off the beauty, complexity and diversity of the region’s flora, from renosterveld and vleiland (wetland) to sandveld and strandveld plants, so you can get up close and feast your eyes. Then forage at the market for snacks, scones, local produce and indigenous plants; and hop on a tractor ride to see the flowers in the fields or join a guided wildflower walk.
- Voorkamer Festival: This unique event presents “mini shows” (theatre, music, dance, cabaret, comedy, etc) by professional performers in locals’ living rooms (voorkamers). It’s a “lucky dip” experience with an element of surprise, as you won’t know who will appear on stage until you get there. Held in October, it encompasses 21 venues along seven routes (transport included). There’s also food, wine and plenty of socialising.
- Rocking the Daisies: Hosted at Cloof Wine Estate every October, Rocking the Daisies is one of the longest-running outdoor music festivals in SA. With four stages, multiple dance floors and a line-up of local and international artists (singers, bands and DJs), there’s something to suit most tastes. The addition of art and interactive experiences, lifestyle pop-ups, food and drinks stalls, a beach zone next to a dam and cool camping options create the ultimate festival vibe. Tickets usually go on sale from around April.
- Hoptober Beer Festival: Darling Brew presents a range of seasonal events, including a Winterfest (focusing on stout), various mountain-biking days and the Hoptober Beer Festival – an Oktoberfest with a local twist (no lederhosen needed, unless you really want to!). Think food stalls for biltong, braai dishes like potjiekos and skilpadjies, pap en sous, local craft beer (including seven guest breweries) and live music.
9. The local speciality: Darling Sweet
It’s all about good old-fashioned toffee here, with delectable flavour twists. Hand-crafted with plenty of butter and quality ingredients, with no artificial anything, the choices include rooibos chai, ginger & cardamom, bird’s-eye chilli, coffee and salted. Since launching a decade ago with Tannie Evita’s Classic Toffee, the range has grown to 10 toffee flavours, eight soft caramels, three toffee spreads (delicious on pancakes and other cakes) and a new traditional fudge. Serving up pure sweet delight and nostalgia, the tasting room, factory and shop can be found at Evita se Perron, in Darling’s original railway station building. You can also get a peek at the production process from behind a glass wall.
Good to know A portion of proceeds go to the maintenance of the Evita se Perron museum.
Opening times Daily, 10am – 4pm
Contact 066 391 9481, hello@darlingsweet.co.za
Where to find it 8 Arcadia Street, Darling
10. The history: Darling Mystery Trail
Pop in at the Darling Museum and pick up your map and ticket with a list of instructions and riddles. Make sure you have a smartphone to scan QR codes (and with GPS or a compass), and you’re ready to discover the whole historic village. The story goes that Sir Charles Henry Darling, founder of the town in 1853, buried some treasure here… A mix of treasure hunt, geocaching and photo safari, it takes you for a stroll all around town, solving more than 10 clues, completing puzzles, enjoying the sights and discovering various delights. The trail changes annually and every year one person who’s completed it wins a R1 200 weekend voucher.
Good to know The museum has entire sections dedicated to butter, horse carriages and farm machinery.
Opening times Daily, 10am – 3pm
Cost R35 per person (includes museum entry and trail)
R100 (family of four, two adults + two kids)
R140 (group special for 5 adults)
Contact 022 492 3361, info@darlingtourism.co.za
Where to find it Darling Museum, Hill Street, Darling
Darling Wine Farms
Groote Post
Groote Post has a deep, interesting history. The Cape Dutch farmhouse (built 1808) has been home to a pioneering botanist and an early cookbook author; the original cattle-guarding post became a dairy farm and, now, a celebrated wine estate run by the three generations of the Pentz family. Capturing the West Coast in a bottle, the Seasalter sauvignon blanc has been called the quintessential “Weskus white” (there’s also the Pinch of Salt chardonnay and Salt of the Earth shiraz); the Old Man’s Blend (red or white) is a timeless classic. The range of a dozen varietals includes cap classique and a pinot noir rosé. Pop in for a tasting and a picnic platter.
Good to know There are also game drives in the 2 000-hectare conservation area (especially popular in spring when the wildflowers bloom), with a cheese-and-wine snack break. The farm is home to a ground-breaking quagga-breeding project, which makes for a unique sighting.
Cost Wine-tasting: R50
Picnic platter: R250
Game drive: R400 (adult), R200 (child)
Opening times Daily, 10am – 4pm
Contact 022 492 2825, wine@grootepost.co.za
Where to find it Darling Hills Road (off the R307), 17km from Darling
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Ormonde
This winery on the edge of town, founded in 1970 by the Basson Family, is a gem – there is a wide choice of wines, only available to purchase here. It produces five award-winning ranges, including the Chip Off the Old Block single-vineyard wines, barrel-selected collection and exceptional Ondine range of less common varietals. Enjoy a tasting on the deck or in the serene garden, where swans, geese and ducks strut, or in the “big barrel” barn. Be sure to order their wonderful platter (a generous spread of breads, chicken pâté, local cheeses, charcuterie and savoury and sweet tarts). A chocolate or nougat pairing, and light meals such as gourmet toasties and bagels, are also on offer.
Good to know There is a playground for children and a fun kids’ pairing of juices with doughnuts (or hot choc, milkshake and chocolate).
Cost R50 (wine-tasting)
R150 (chocolate and wine pairing)
Opening times Monday – Saturday, 9am – 4pm
Contact 082 839 2956, info@ormonde.co.za
Where to find it Corner of Langfontein and Mount Pleasant Road, Darling
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Contreberg
One of the oldest farms in the region, established in the early 1800s by the Dutch East India Company as a supply station, wine-making is a relatively recent enterprise for the Versfeld family – but has resulted in several award-winning wines. Visit the tasting room to try the cabernet sauvignon, shiraz, sauvignon blanc and rosé, and tuck into delicious wood-fired roosterkoek with views over the vines to Table Mountain in the distance. Contreberg is also home to free-range sheep and cows, and the tiny five-hectare Harold Versfeld Private Reserve, which puts on a gorgeous display of spring wildflowers – including the rare “Darling ivory”.
Good to know The Cape Dutch manor offers exclusive-use accommodation for 15 guests. Keep an eye out for occasional special dining events on the farm.
Opening times Saturday + Sunday, 10.30am – 3pm
Weekdays by appointment
Contact 072 717 1607, eleanor@contreberg.co.za
Where to find it On the R307 to Mamre (9km from town)
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Darling Cellars
With its slogan “Bush Vines from the Cool West Coast”, Darling Cellars is all about sustainability and a return to traditional, non-intervention wine-making methods. The award-winning range includes a heritage collection that tells the story of the Darling region, an amphora range and cap classiques. Enjoy a straight-up tasting of four wines or the monthly themed wine pairing (past themes have included savoury – cheese, spring roll, pie, meatballs – and sweet – brownies and lemon, red velvet and carrot cakes). The restaurant serves crowd-pleasing meals like pizza, sticky pork ribs, snackwiches and a meat-and-sausage platter along with the classic cheese platter, and is dog-friendly.
Good to know There is also a kiddies pairing of sparkling grape juice with pizza slices and marshmallow and chocolate. Cellar tours are offered by appointment.
Cost R50 (wine-tasting)
R100 (themed wine pairing)
Opening times Monday – Thursday, 9am – 5pm; Friday until 4pm
Saturday, 10am – 3pm
Contact 022 492 2276, tasting@darlingcellars.co.za
Where to find it On the R315 at Mamreweg Station (15km from town)
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Cloof + Burgherspost
At the foot of the Dassenberg hill lie sibling farms with a sense of fun (Cloof hosts the annual Rocking the Daisies music festival) and a daring approach to winemaking. There are three ranges: the Duckitt reds (named after viticulturist Peter Duckitt’s pioneering forefather); the premium, hand-crafted Winemakers Selection; and the signature Very Sexy Shiraz and The Dark Side red blend. A biodiversity champion, the farms also protect 1 200 hectares of endangered fynbos and renosterveld, home to zebras, springboks, eland and other antelope.
Good to know Burgherspost has two self-catering cottages; game drives (and flower-viewing drives in spring) are offered to overnight guests.
Cost Free (wine-tasting); by appointment
Opening times Monday – Thursday, 8am – 5pm; Friday until 3pm
Contact 022 492 2839, info@cloof.co.za
Where to find it Off R315, 20km from town
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Where to eat
Hilda’s Kitchen
For a memorable wine-farm lunch, Groote Post captures West Coast flavour in the bottle and on the plate. Pop in for a tasting and stay for a meal at Hilda’s Kitchen – served in the manor house, a national monument, that was once home to Hildagonda Duckitt (an avid cook and cookbook author in the late 1800s). The dining room seems almost unchanged since her day, filled with antiques and interesting vintage culinary tools. Chef Debbie McLaughlin and husband Shaun (front of house) have presided over this hidden gem for two decades. The hearty yet refined “modern country” menu changes daily – look out for the Old Man’s steak roll or gourmet bunny chow. No frills, just true farm-to-table dining, with the garden raided an hour before service. Booking is essential.
Good to know Hilda’s serves Christmas lunch on the 16 December public holiday every year.
Opening times Wednesday – Sunday, 12pm – 2.30pm
Contact 022 492 2825, 083 325 4148, mclaughlin@worldonline.co.za
Where to find it Darling Hills Road (off the R307), 17km from Darling
The Marmalade Cat
If it’s Friday and you’re in Darling, you’ll want to be at The Marmalade Cat for its famous gourmet pizza night – wood-fired, 18 different options (plus a dessert pizza), with complimentary side salad; booking is essential. Sandi Collins opened her café and gift shop back in 2005 – the same year an actual marmalade cat adopted her and the shop; new owners Zan and Flip aim to keep the magic going. Settle in for laid-back breakfasts, wholesome lunches and afternoon tea with scones, among shelves stacked with locally made preserves and handicrafts. A freezer stocked with homemade ready meals and a stash of local beer and wines, baked goods and cheeses mean you can also shop for your self-catering accommodation.
Opening times Daily, 8am – 4.30pm; Friday until late
Contact 081 382 5338, 022 492 2515, marmaladecatpurrr@gmail.com
Where to find it 19 Main Street, Darling
1910 The Old Forge
This converted barn is an atmospheric treasure trove of vintage finds, from old church pews, silver candlesticks and ornate chandeliers to trophy heads, Persian carpets and shiny timberwork. It’s also the closest you’ll get to fine dining in town, with beautifully plated food, expertly cooked, and stellar service. The menu (in the form of an old-school newspaper) includes baked camembert, a salmon stack, whitebait, steak-and-ale pie, steak and seafood. Not merely a great place for a meal, it’s a social hub – from happy hour on Fridays to family days, live music and themed evenings that have included Mexican, Thai, Indian and a medieval feast. There’s also the King’s Room Whisky Lounge… think leather armchairs, books, a chess set and casino table.
Good to know Weekend-only breakfasts are indulgent and lovely, while Sunday is for roasts with all the trimmings (one-, two- or three-course lunch).
Opening times Wednesday, 5pm until late; Thursday, 12pm until late
Friday + Saturday, 8.30am until late; Sunday until 5pm
Contact 022 492 2120, info@1910theoldforge.com
Where to find it 7 Long Street, Darling
Where to stay
!Khwa ttu
Amid fynbos and open veld, with the ocean in the distance, this tranquil hideaway offers a nature escape an hour from the city. Immersing guests in the ancient history and culture of the San, it’s also educational. Self-catering lodgings comprise six Hilltop Huisies (with sea views), six Fynbos Cabins (with hot tubs) and the private two-bedroom Bush House, all with fireplaces and braai areas, and breakfast included. On site, guests have access to game drives, experiences with San guides, an award-winning museum, a restaurant (which can deliver meals to you) and cycling and walking trails.
Child friendly? Yes
Pet friendly? Yes
Wifi? Yes
Sleeps 2 per unit (4 in Bush House)
Cost From R2 200 per night for two adults; R500 per child
Bush House: from R3 500 per night
Where to find it R27 (West Coast Road) near Yzerfontein/Darling (R315) intersection
CHECK AVAILABILITY + BOOK DIRECT
Darling Lodge Guest House
The accommodation closest to a hotel you’ll get in the town’s quiet historical centre, Darling Lodge Guest House has nine rooms – all different from each other, and inspired by local artists. The guest house is an elegant Victorian charmer, with its wide front veranda and magnificent garden – a heady profusion of roses, lavender, bougainvillea and pepper and palm trees. The three standard rooms in the main house are more country-style, with brass beds and Victorian baths. The newer garden building has a more modern sensibility, with spacious suites featuring a private lounge and verandah overlooking the pool and garden. Guests can relax outdoors, in the guest lounge (with Netflix) or library, and help themselves to drinks from the honesty bar. A lovely breakfast is served every day, and a concierge service supports your planning of Darling adventures.
Child friendly? No, only teens (over 12 years)
Pet friendly? No
Wifi? Yes
Sleeps 2 per room
Cost From R1 180 per night
Suites from R1 780 per night
Where to find it 22 Pastorie Street, Darling
CHECK AVAILABILITY + BOOK DIRECT
Toad Hall
This whimsical Victorian B&B is everything you imagine in a place inspired by a classic children’s storybook – a tumble down the “rabbit hole” into a colourful, fantastical abode filled with antiques and trinkets, with rooms opening onto an enchanting garden with a pool. Four dogs and two cats share this home with owners Andrew and Wayne, who warmly welcome guests – from gorgeous breakfasts on the terrace to curated experiences, including wine blending, game drives and horse-riding, you will be thoroughly spoiled.
Child friendly? No
Pet friendly? No
Wifi? Yes
Sleeps 2 per room
Cost From R1 250 per night per room
Where to find it Stasie Street, Darling
CHECK AVAILABILITY + BOOK DIRECT
Inside tips
- For the best views in Darling, walk up Darling Hill (just behind Ormonde winery) to the lookout point, where the entire region lies at your feet.
- At the Darling Wine Shop in Main Road, you can taste owner Charles Withington’s own Roan Ranger red, Darlington Gin (made with the prized local kukumakranka herb) and order fresh West Coast oysters and mussels.
- Darling Lodge screens movies in its beautiful garden twice a year (shorts in October and an old-school movie in February).
- Look out for Ceres Rail’s once-in-a-blue-moon steam-train trips to Darling Cellars (which is located at Mamreweg Station).
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One Response to “Darling: The Inside Guide to this West Coast Town”
Deonne le Roux
This is just fantastic! I love your email newsletters. This article about Darling is the perfect way to plan an extraordinary day in this area. Here is my request: Please do similar articles for all the different areas: Durbanville, Noordhoek, Stellenbosch, Franshoek, etc.
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR YOUR OUTSTANDING NEWSLETTER. Best regards, Deonne le Roux, Pretoria.