Hearty flavours with vibrant seasonality and a deep-rooted connection to the land.
Turning off onto Groot Phesantekraal’s winding farm road, the fringes of Durbanville development are immediately forgotten… it’s all wheat fields, vines, sheep with frolicking lambs, a glimpse of grazing buffalo, antelope and zebra, and more vines rolling over the hills and far away. The working family farm dates back to 1698, a comfortable blend of old and new, the farm buildings clustered beside the original Cape Dutch farmhouse where fourth-generation owners, André and Ronelle Brink live. A glass-walled tasting room connected to the new wine cellar gives onto a courtyard with a vine covered pergola, sheltered by the historic thatched stable (built in 1767), which is home to the newly re-imagined restaurant.
Here the original wooden mangers line each wall, there are blue-and-white Dutch tiles and plates, a mural, old photos, small square windows and cobblestone floors. The ambience is serene, rustic and welcoming, an extension of the farmhouse kitchen where you quickly feel part of the extended family, and the Brinks’ well-trained border collies might be politely snoozing in a corner.
Introducing a new chef
The restaurant’s re-launch sees new chef Germaine Esau presiding over a thoroughly renovated and expanded kitchen. His food philosophy is founded in the early years of his career, working with Neil Jewell at Bread and Wine and Christiaan Campbell at Delaire Graff, and you might remember him from his four-year stint as head chef at Myoga before it closed in 2020.
Today it’s clear that he is revelling in the hyper-seasonality of farm restaurant life. One day there’s buffalo tartare from the farm herd, another day a fish delivery from Abalobi to star on the menu. The farm produces eggs, dairy, honey and olive oil, and according to season there might be a harvest of artichokes, quinces, figs or guavas to preserve, pickle or jam… he’s looking forward to harvesting pumpkin and makataan later in the year. “I try to incorporate at least one thing from the farm in every dish, to tie it to a sense of place,” he says. Dedicated to using the whole animal, he’s teaching his team to break down a carcass and to use every last cut for charcuterie, pies and terrines.
Farm feasts
On the starters menu when we visited were creamy corn soup poured around crunchy snoek croquettes; a chunky pork terrine with pickled cherries; and a venison tartare with fried capers and potato crisps. We also had to sample the latest charcuterie… the lamb lonza with a sticky pumpkin preserve was sublime.
For mains, a fall-apart tender lamb with smoked aubergine, tomato and basil is already a perennial favourite; and we fell for a surprising (and deeply delicious) potato and mushroom ‘risotto’ (no rice, it’s finely chopped potato that absorbs all the flavour) crowned with a stuffed zucchini flower; plus a wholesome chicken pie accompanied by a luscious caramelised mushroom gravy. Add to that a fresh side salad or crispy roast potatoes sprinkled with kapokbos salt, and it was a hearty farmhouse feast to keep us going on taste memories for days.
Estate wines
Each dish comes with a pairing recommendation from among the estate wines (all available by the glass). The Durbanville Valley is known for sauvignon blanc, but Groot Phesantekraal is also making a name for chenin blanc, including the latest 2024 vintage which is delightfully guava-scented, and the elegantly structured Anna de Konin 2023. Make time for a wine-tasting before lunch to explore the whole range, which also features a velvety pinotage and beautifully fresh cap classique.
Open for breakfast as well as lunch, the restaurant at Groot Phesantekraal is a delightful escape from the city, with a timeless atmosphere and layer upon layer of honest-to-goodness farm flavour.
Good to know There’s a children’s menu too.
Opening times Tuesday – Friday, 8.30am – 4pm (kitchen closes at 3.30pm)
Saturday + Sunday, 9am – 4pm (kitchen closes at 3.30pm)
Contact 021 825 0060, restaurant@phesantekraal.co.za
Where to find it Groot Phesantekraal Farm, Klipheuwel Way (R302), Durbanville, Cape Town
Book through DinePlan
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