Le Bistrot De JAN: Peerless French Flair at the V&A Waterfront

It feels like a little piece of France has been whisked to Cape Town’s V&A Waterfront. With dark-blue awnings and café tables outside, and a dusky midnight-blue interior lit by cascading beaded chandeliers, Le Bistrot De JAN is South African chef and multi-talented food and style icon Jan-Hendrik van der Westhuizen’s ode to the classic French bistro. Tucked into a time capsule of a hidden-gem space at the newly renovated InterContinental Table Bay Cape Town, the restaurant is cosy and elegant, unpretentious but utterly beautiful.

The final piece of the magic spell is woven by chef Giles Edwards (who you’ll remember from La Tête), and who is the ideal exponent of Jan’s culinary vision. “It’s fresh and it’s as simple as it could be,” says Giles. “I went to Nice with Jan and we ate at loads of local places. We’re channelling that French spirit. No mess, no fuss.”

A winning recipe

When Restaurant JAN in Nice first earned a Michelin star back in 2016, Jan put South African flavours on a level playing field with French cuisine in an elevated South of France setting. In 2024 Jan opened Le Bistrot De JAN in Nice as its younger, slightly rebellious, à la carte sibling, which proved equally successful, and now he’s brought that same energy to Cape Town.

With midnight-blue walls (in JAN Hague Blue), cascading chandeliers, mosaic mirrors and deep banquettes, Jan stages an experience that appeals to all the senses, capturing a moment out of time that is pure theatre. With strains of Charles Aznavour chansons, light glittering in the chandeliers and losing itself in the swathes of deep blue velvet, and flickers of fire from the open kitchen, there’s an effortless grandeur, a sense of abundance and heaps of nostalgia.

Bistro nostalgia

Served on classic white bistro plates (fancied up with a gold rim) and vintage cutlery sourced from French brocante markets, the à la carte menu is concise but irresistible. We tucked into ample starters of a superb crispy duck with green beans tossed in a punchy mustard dressing, and a light and piquant pickled octopus served with red radicchio and a hazelnut pesto. Classic salad nicoise, beef tartare and chicken liver parfait are other enticing stalwarts to return for… it’s one of those eternal dilemmas whether to come back for a repeat of a delicious dish or explore the menu further.

In the open kitchen, Giles stands over the fire turning hefty chunks of steak Florentine, which could happily be shared between four people, with just a wedge salad and frites. And the chicken pie with truffle sauce is another standout. We opted to share a whole sole meunière: deboned and served with capers and croutons, a simply delicious spoil that ticks all the boxes. Bacon bits on the lush wedge salad and a creamy lentil side with tangy salsa verde added more bistro magic.

Sweet dreams and cheese

Giles’ madeleines have been legendary since La Tête days, and they’re on the menu here, served warm from the oven: so comforting dunked in a velvet crème anglaise. And the frangipane fruit tart is superb, not too sweet, the fruit’s acidity balancing the rich almond filling and a crisp olive oil crust. Don’t miss the opportunity to peek into the captivating cheese room that is part of Jan’s signature style: with tall library shelves stuffed with cookbooks, a cornucopia still life of cheeses, fruits and preserves piled high on the table, it’s another moment of pure visual enchantment. And say yes to tea or coffee, if only for the squares of deeply caramelised fudge that melt in the mouth as a final Bonsoir to an evening of French-South African charm.

Good to know A lunch prix fixe menu is running through winter: R450 for 2 courses; R650 for three courses.
Opening times Monday – Sunday, 12pm – 3pm; 6pm – 10pm
Contact 021 821 4180, LBDJ@ictablebay.com
Where to find it InterContinental Table Bay, 6 West Quay Road, V&A Waterfront, Cape Town
Book Now

Discover all of the Cape’s hidden gems – subscribe to our weekly newsletter.