Rikū Chefs Counter + Ryū Sushi Counter at The Old Biscuit Mill

Riku Chefs Counter

It’s loud, it’s out there, it’s fine-dining with attitude.

A playlist of 90s hip-hop and rap isn’t what you’d expect for a Cape Town fine-dining experience, but then chef Rikku Ó’Donnchü isn’t one to play by the rules. Rikū Chef’s Counter challenges conventions at every turn…

Riku Chefs Counter DIning

The dark and moody speakeasy-style dining spot at the Old Biscuit Mill seats just 12 guests at the pass, doing away with wait staff altogether. So it’s just you, two chefs and a mixologist for an intense succession of bold flavours dramatically presented. Right next door is Ryū Sushi Counter where Rikku takes the same deconstructed but intimate formula and applies it to a Japanese omakase and à la carte sushi concept (here, the hip-hop playlist is, of course, Japanese).

A talented team

Riku Chefs Counter Menu

At Rikū Chef’s Counter, “a sensory and immersive ScandinAsian concept” is brought to life by talented and experienced chefs Darren Saunders and Lesedi Zondo (who worked together for seven years under chef Marthinus Ferreira at DW Eleven before moving to the Cape). And award-winning mixologist, Alecs Powrie, combines a warm front-of-house welcome with serious cocktail creativity. There’s the option of a cocktail (or a wine) pairing) throughout the eight-course set menu, but we just went for her Burritarita, a savoury, pepper-infused tequila, clarified milk and citrus cocktail.

Bold flavours

Riku Chefs Counter Dish

As Darren and Lesedi deftly work on the complex dishes in front of you, they take turns to present the story of the ingredients as well as the dish. On our visit the nine-course menu kicked off with a delicious edamame tart with sesame emulsion in a light flakey pastry; pushed flavour boundaries with cured scallops in a spicy strawberry gazpacho with salted fingers (an indigenous coastal ice plant). Sculptural ceramics are all part of the presentation, and there are plenty of popular cultural references: Squid Game is a light dish of squid with fish marmite and sea fennel; Drake – Not The Rapper a delicious amalgam of duck, pickled cherries and roast cauliflower purée. And then the lights go down and the 90s rap song Insane in the Brain starts… But no more spoilers for now; see for yourself before Darren’s new (equally adventurous) menu launches in November.

Fine dining with attitude

Riku Chefs Counter Experience

With a small space and each course served simultaneously to diners at the long counter, timing is key. You might not even be able to spot the door to Rikū Chefs Counter until the dot of 6pm, when it lights up with the logo and you’re welcomed in. If you’re late for your seating you join the feast at whatever course is currently being served, no catch-ups.
Good to know In mid-November 2024 when the new menu launches, the evening will change to a single seating at 7pm
Cost Lunch R1 250 (+ optional beverage pairing R900)
Dinner R1 975 (+ optional beverage pairing R1 450)
Opening times Tuesday – Saturday, 12.30pm, 6pm, 8.30pm
Book through DinePlan

RYŪ Sushi Counter

Riku Chefs Counter Ryu

A Japanese izakaya and bar with a punky edge, decked out in petrified wood, blown-up polaroids of The Last Samurai, and a counter stretching onto an open-air deck at the front, Ryū Sushi Counter sits right next door to its sister restaurant in a quirky converted container. Here Rikku takes a modernist approach to sushi (with his signature touch of edgy flair) but keeps it rooted in the Japanese tradition (no California Rolls here).

Riku Chefs Counter Samurai

The dynamic team from Rikū Chefs Counter are behind the menu here, too (with the addition of a specialised sushi chef). Go for a 10-course omakase menu of chawamushi, miso soup, tempura and robatayaki, traditional sushi, or eat à la carte (gyoza, katsu curries and sweet treats). And Alecs has collaborated with bartender Tristan Jacobs on a refreshing array of bottled cocktails, fermented juices and tea-based drinks, as well as saki and a boutique wine list.

Opening times Wednesday – Sunday, 12pm – 10pm

Challenging the norms of fine dining, both Rikū and Ryū cut out the distance between chef and diner, in a fast-paced adventure of the palate.

Contact 078 869 8338 (WhatsApp) chef@riku-chefscounter.com
Where to find it Old Biscuit Mill, 375 Albert Road, Woodstock, Cape Town

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Disclaimer:

The Inside Guide has made every effort to ensure that the information in this post was correct at the time of publication. However, we do not assume any liability caused by errors, such as price, cost, time, and location.

Time of publication: 16 October 2024