Wine of the Week 38: Alvi’s Drift Reserve Viognier 2023

Alvis Drift Reserve Viognier

A complex, fruit-forward wine from the Breede River Valley.

A low bridge spans the Breede River on the Van der Merwe family farm, linking the road from Worcester to the Scherpenheuwel Valley. Built by Alvi van der Merwe’s grandfather (also Alvi) in 1930 to give easier access to the land and its community, it’s become a symbol of connection on this third-generation family farm. When Alvi was drawn back home from a flourishing medical career in America to pursue his dream of wine-making, it was his grandfather’s bridge that gave him the name for his new winery. 

The labels on the Alvi’s Drift Reserve range feature an illustration of the bridge that speaks of tradition, transformation and possibility, and represents Alvi’s guiding philosophy. He says, “Dare to be true to yourself, the people and the land and leave all better for having been there. It will bear fruit for generations to come.”

A sense of place

Alvis Drift Valley

Although the fertile Breede River Valley is known for its high summer temperatures, the region’s southern reaches contain cooler pockets – the result of unique microclimates caused by the area’s topography. In Alvi’s Drift’s wine ward of Scherpenheuvel, the diurnal swing (between nighttime and daytime temperatures) places it in Winkler Summation II, the same category as some of France’s Bordeaux region. This makes it ideal for the production of chenin blanc, viognier and pinotage. With 410 hectares of vineyards farmed using sustainable and conservation-minded practices, the family winery now produces five exceptional wine ranges that regularly garner international awards.

A journey with viognier

Alvis Drift Reserve Viognier Journey

A love affair with the viognier cultivar is behind the exciting new addition to the Reserve range. With some of the largest viognier plantings in the country, planted on loamy soils with good drainage, Alvi’s Drift has become something of a specialist in this classical Rhône varietal, known for requiring a high level of winemaking expertise.

“Viognier was almost on the verge of extinction worldwide back in the 1960s,” says cellarmaster Riaan Marais. “Alvi’s Drift decided to plant it for its adaptability and its good fruit. Back then there were very few single varietal viogniers on the shelf in South Africa, and those tended to be big and heavy in style. Alvi saw its potential as a fragrant wine with real character, without being overly wooded or too high in alcohol.”

Creating a new wine

Alvis Drift Reserve Viognier Creating

When Alvi’s entry-level Signature Viognier was named the best in South Africa in the 2022 Viognier Challenge, he was inspired to build on that success. “Like many developments in the cellar, it is usually Alvi’s creative brain that takes us forward, asking what if…? And a new product is born.” says Riaan.

Alvis Drift Reserve Viognier Farm

The just-released Reserve Viognier 2023 is a case in point, exemplifying the private cellar’s motto, “Taste what is possible”. “When we decided to try our hand at oak-ageing our viognier, we knew which styles we definitely didn’t want. We started with older barrels to make sure the fruit stays forward and that the wood is a complementary aspect rather than the driver,” adds Riaan.

And Riaan and Alvi have got it just right… creating an intriguingly aromatic wine with fruit as well as intensity, and plenty of ageing potential. “I’m so excited about this wine. It’s a complex, textured viognier and is just incredible on the palate,” says Alvi.

Alvi’s Drift Reserve Viognier 2023

Alvis Drift Reserve Viognier Bottle

Described as a white wine for red-wine lovers, this maiden release was produced in limited quantities. It almost sold out on pre-orders, but 150 cases were held back to sell on its official launch in October. Even before the launch it achieved a Great Gold in the International Wine & Spirits Awards, and a Medal of Excellence (90 points or more) from Tim Atkin in his 2024 South Africa Special Report. It’s one that oenophiles will want to get their hands on quickly before it sells out.

Alvis Drift Reserve Viognier Wine

With a radiant, pale-gold hue, this standout wine has delightful aromas of ripe peach, juicy apricot, mango and pineapple. Subtle floral notes and nuanced oak ageing add depth, complemented by hints of toasted coriander seeds and vanilla. On the palate, it offers a well-balanced, rounded mouthfeel and a lingering finish. Alvi expects that this viognier will age gracefully for up to eight years.
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Disclaimer:

The Inside Guide has made every effort to ensure that the information in this post was correct at the time of publication. However, we do not assume any liability caused by errors, such as price, cost, time, and location.

Time of publication: 11 November 2024