Wine of the Week 8: Lowerland Tolbos Tannat 2021

A thousand metres above-sea-level in the Northern Cape’s Prieska lies a vineyard planted on Kalahari red sand on limestone soils. Here at Lowerland kudus wander through the vines in pruning season, lending their considerable bite in place of secateurs.

A passion for permaculture

“Our mission is to farm in an integrated, circular permaculture system to minimise inputs from outside, to maximise soil health and to focus on healthy soils and quality produce,” says owner-farmer Bertie Coetzee.

A generational concern, the Coetzee family has owned Lowerland since the mid-century. The first wine grapes went into the ground in 2000, and are brought to bottle by superstar winemaker, Lukas van Loggerenberg.

Pigs and Bonsmara cattle snuffle through all year round, grazing on cover crop. “Our piglets are weaned into pig tractors,” comments Coetzee. “We move them up to six times per day.”

In the growing season sheep are let loose in the vineyards to clean under the dripline and the manure from the livestock is used as natural fertiliser.

“Animals are such an important part of agriculture. You can replace diesel [tractors] and chemicals with livestock, while creating healthier soils and systems, and higher quality products as a result.

“With bacon as a bonus,” Coetzee quips.

Lowerland Tolbos Tannat 2021

Alpine aromatics of black tea, jasmine, crushed fynbos in a blackwater stream. This unusual grape positively sings of its distinct terroir, suffused with berries, flora and tobacco spice. On the palate tannins melt and fold around a core of black fruit, going savoury to the tail with a wash of cherry juice just to lift things up and go all the way back to the beginning for another sip.

Pair it with beef, lamb, game or mushrooms for a hearty winter feast.
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