An approachable, fresh and vibrant white from the Hemel en Aarde.
Restless River has come a long way since their debut vintage vinified in their farm’s Wendy House in the Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley. Winemaker and viticulturist Craig Wessels is completely self-taught having left behind a career in animation and film directing. Two decades later and the winery is still family run, with wife Anne and son Luke onboard. Not one of the brood, but certainly part of the team is assistant winemaker, Hylton Gibson. All four were present to showcase the latest vintage release at Harald Bresselschmidt’s Auslese.
Cult favourite
“We have a clear direction of where we’re going, and how we’re getting there,” says Craig. “This is the first time in 20 years I have felt at complete ease presenting the wines.”
While his modesty is disarming, the truth of the matter is that Restless River has firmly positioned themselves as a cult favourite with their confident, elegant wines. The ‘Single Vineyards Range’, which focuses on terroir-driven pinot noir, chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon, are considered South African ‘First Growths’ – and rightly so.
Unusually, their Main Road & Dignity Cab flourishes in this cool climate, no doubt in thanks to Craig’s fastidious approach in the vineyard, which includes weeks of picking at different stages of ripeness. This wine thrust them into the limelight. The same can be said for the Ava Marie Chardonnay – from a block of skinny vines approaching 30 years old – that is named for their daughter, and which sells out pretty much as soon as it is released, and the Le Luc Pinot Noir, a tribute to their son, which has fast become one of the best examples in the valley, no mean feat in a region renowned for its world-class pinot.
New growth
On the back of this success the Wessels have continued to plant, with 21 hectares on their home farm now expanding into the neighbouring property – with which they have augmented their portfolio with the Vineyard Selection range. 2024 sees the debut release of the Restless River Pinot Noir 2023 and the Restless River Chardonnay 2023.
“Fresh and vibrant, they deliver both purity and complexity,” enthused Craig while presenting the wines. “The goal is to provide an approachable entry point to Restless River, encouraging more frequent enjoyment.”
Restless River Chardonnay 2023
From younger vines (planted in 2019) growing on Cederberg shale – an unusual soil type for the Hemel-en-Aarde. Flash of matchstick reduction before delicate aromatics of white peach, lemon balm and pear. The palate is bright and polished with the house’s signature vibrant acidity pulling through, complemented by just the right amount of curves from barrel ferment and maturation (11 months, just 5% new).
BUY NOW
Discover all of the Cape’s hidden gems – subscribe to our weekly newsletter.