The 15 Best Local Bubblies for Spring: Penny’s Picks

In the hallowed world of wine, Penny Setti is not your run-of-the-mill sommelier: she’s young, black, female, and she keeps things simple with her casual, chatty demeanor and none of the stuffy jargon. At her eponymous wine bar, Penny Noire, in Heritage Square, she champions small-scale, independent and interesting winemakers.

Penny says it’s all about celebrating the “unsung heroes”, and for her patrons to experience something new and different. Her knack for “pairing” her patrons’ “flavour profile’’ with wines  – as opposed to pairing wines with foods – is uncanny. (We’ve experienced it first hand!)

Zambian-born Penny studied politics at Rhodes University, but while waitressing as a student she had her first glass of wine and was hooked. When she landed up at the erstwhile Chefs Warehouse & Canteen, owner Liam Tomlin gave her free rein to curate the winelist and “geek out with [her] passion”. 

He also identified the need for a good wine bar at Heritage Square, and that’s how Penny Noire came to be. Penny is an ambassador for the Women in Wine movement, a wine judge, a taster for the Platter’s SA Wine Guide, and a member of the SA Sommelier Association. 

“I’ll be drinking bubbly this season,” she says. “There are so many great ones around – we have so much choice!” Herewith, her selection of the best SA-made cap classiques:

Penny’s picks

L’Ormarins Brut Classique Rosé (Franschhoek)
“This easy-drinking wine from Anthonij Rupert Wyne, with its vivacious citrus aromas, should be in your picnic basket this summer.”

Le Lude Brut Rosé (Franschhoek)
“It’s always a good sign when an estate only does bubbly – not just as an afterthought. This rosé is teeming with wonderful aromas. A stunner.”

Colmant Brut Reserve (Franschhoek)
“An absolute classic made by [Belgian] Jean-Phillipe Colmant and Paul Gerber. I have followed this estate through the years and its consistency is next to none.”

Kleine Zalze MCC Vintage Brut 2015 (Stellenbosch)
“This old-world style MCC, picked in an almost flawless vintage year and matured for five years, is a serious wine. I love it with roast chicken on the patio on a summer’s night.”

Beau Constantia Pas de Nom MCC (Constantia)
“Sip a glass of this 100% chardonnay while looking out over the vineyards in the Constantia Valley… It’s fresh but leaves a lingering presence with a lemon-tart mouthfeel. Pure class.”

Aristea Brut Blanc 2015 (Constantia)
“This is another recent discovery. Matthew Krone makes it under his own label. What’s quite nice about this wine is that it drinks quite dry but it’s got a richness about it. It’s not overly lemony and it makes you think as you take each sip.”

Steenberg 1682 Chardonnay Brut (Constantia)
“The farm’s beautiful gardens just scream to have this in one’s hand. Classic and delicious.”

Charles Fox Reserve Brut (Elgin)
“A classic cannot-miss from this region, as it’s one of only six MCCs made on their farm. The Foxes take their ware very seriously because it is all they produce.”

Genevieve Rosé (Bot River)
“A rosé done properly. This one ticks all the boxes, and more. You have to try it!”

Silverthorn River Dragon (Robertson)
“Green Man (100% chardonnay) is one of Silverthorn’s more popular ones; the River Dragon, made from 100% colombar, is different to the traditional chardonnay-pinot noir MCC. The vibrant green hues with crispy green apples yield a lovely summer bubbly.”

Paul René Brut Rosé (Robertson)
“I’m always on the lookout for rosés done properly. I came across this fabulous one recently. Made with pinot noir and chardonnay, it’s an absolute beaut.”

Graham Beck Brut (Robertson)
“It’s one of those that just fits all the bills. Zero window dressing and it drinks so beautifully.”

Krone Kaaimansgat Blanc de Blancs 2016 (Tulbagh)
“Light on the palate – and at 11% alcohol, this summer must-drink is flinty fresh fun.”

Filia by Huis van Chevallerie (Swartland)
“It’s an off-the-beaten track MCC made by Christa van La Chevallerie, who is known for her funky and delicious wines. This particular one is made from heritage chenin blanc bush vines.”

Costa del Swart Viura Vonkelwyn 2019 (Swartland)
An experimental batch made with 100% viura (used in Spanish cava) by Ewan McKenzie, with the help of Christa from Huis van Chevallerie. “This is the type of bubbly that keeps giving in the glass. By the end of the bottle (yes, it will happen), ‘Enlightened’ will be your middle name.”

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