A dining experience that explores light and shade, sustainability and fine dining in a superb 13-course menu of contrasts.
“At Dusk we dine.” The Stellenbosch restaurant’s slogan, declaimed with a flourish, hints at the deceptive simplicity, mystery and all-out theatre that embellish the dining experience at this thought-provoking establishment. Owners Darren Badenhorst and Callan Austin have set out to break boundaries, challenge norms and set a new standard for the industry. From the minute you step through the speakeasy-esque entrance, your senses are intrigued.
Dark and moody
First the ambience – it’s dark. Elegant downlights over your table spotlight what’s important: the food. Against the backdrop of dramatic, veined-marble walls, the surroundings disappear into the shadows, apart from the open kitchen where the team is intensely focused on their work. Seating just 30 people, the dining room feels intimate and mysterious, a chiaroscuro canvas where the food provides the colour and contrast.
The intrigue begins with two different coloured and flavoured pills – your choice informs a dish later in the menu. And then three impeccably presented canapés arrive, each dazzling in complexity: “The little corn bite” comprised of in-house fermented maize miso and local smoked cheese; “Snail and their roe” served with a garlic emulsion and toasted brioche, and lastly, “Ostrich in its shell” accompanied by heirloom tomatoes and homemade kimchi.
Hyperlocal creativity
The chefs’ ethos shines throughout the 13-course experience: head chef Callan made his name winning the global S.Pellegrino Young Chef Academy’s Social Responsibility Award in 2021; Darren, his mentor, has long been an advocate for sustainability, local producers and wild ingredients. Their journey to new heights is a cumulative effort to work towards hyper-local creativity and zero-waste sustainability. Fermentation techniques and their early-morning foraging excursions, inform each dish.
Without detailing every mouthful, expect the likes of sublime bread course with smoky diablo coal butter, segueing into a dramatic presentation of sustainably farmed oysters. Dishes that delve into heirloom vegetables and use every last offcut… such as the nineteen species of tomato that go into a beautifully layered dish of gazpacho, concasse tomato, smoked tomato broth and confit tomatoes; or the linefish marinated in the nasturtium miso (made in-house), served with green garlic, salmon bone beurre blanc and smoked trout roe… concentrate flavours skillfully into intense mouthfuls of pure pleasure. The menus change with the seasons so each visit promises a tantalising new experience.
The winter tasting menu
For winter a shorter tasting menu gives you a curated snapshot of the Dusk experience (the full signature tasting menu is still available too). All the intrigue packed into 8 courses, it takes you on a culinary adventure that includes pumpkin Kroppkaka (dumplings) with smoked walnut & sage noisette, snail garum glaze, Cremonzola custard; and seared venison loin with coffee kombucha glaze, potatoes & sour cream and smoked mushrooms; and a whole lot more, with options in two of the courses.
View menu
Available 7 May – 30 September 2024
Cost R995
R1 395 (with Wine Experience pairing)
Winemaker’s Dinner Series
A series of one-off culinary evenings created with the wine connoisseur in mind, each dinner showcases an iconic South African wine estate over eight courses paired with eight wines, orchestrated by sommelier Bafana and the guest winemaker.
When
24 May 2024: Waterford Wine Estate
7 June 2024: Simonsig Wine Estate
16 August: Aslina Wines
Cost R1 495 (includes premium wine pairing)
Making a night of it
The Dusk team added Nocturne to the family in July 2023 in the same building on Plein Street. Blurring the lines between mixology and gastronomy, the moody and mysterious bar-restaurant shares the same sustainability ethos as Dusk (its test kitchen and fermentation lab too), pushing boundaries in the cocktail world.
From the perfect portions and exquisite presentation to the seamless service by informed and professional staff, the Dusk and Nocturne experiences are sophisticated and on-trend.
Opening times Tuesday – Saturday, 6pm – 8pm (last seating)
Contact 021 023 4100, reservations@duskrestaurant.co.za
Where to find it 43 Plein Street, Stellenbosch
Book through DinePlan
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