Wine of the week 42: Mother Rock Paying the School Fees White 2023

Mother Rock White

The first release from the new W.O. Piket-Bo-Berg.

“The Swartland is a big place,” states Johan ‘Stompie’ Meyer of Mother Rock Wines when asked what inspired him to establish a new Wine of Origin ward. Officially stamped in 2022, 2025 sees the maiden release of wines bearing “W.O. Piket-Bo-Berg” from Meyer’s Platteklip Vineyards on the Piketberg mountain in northern Swartland.

The designation “Swartland” is obviously an important demarcation, with some of the most exciting wines and producers of the last couple of decades prospecting here. But, as Meyer points out, by simply labelling wines with the catch-all region, you miss out on the nuances of the different microclimates that make up the vast appellation, the largest in South Africa at 440 000 hectares. The boundaries stretch from the Paardeberg in the south to the Piketberg in the north. To put it into perspective, Meyer says his farm is as far from the Paardeberg as it is from Elgin in the Overberg.

A new high-altitude ward

Mother Rock White Vineyards

In order to apply for a new Wine of Origin, there needs to be sufficient evidence that the soils, climate and topography of a delineated area are significantly different from the surrounding region – and that the wines will in turn reflect this. 

Meyer’s high-altitude concern Platteklip Vineyards is perched at a lofty 650 metres above sea level with the slopes ascending all the way up until 785 metres. Acquiring the property in 2016, Meyer quickly got to work planting the virgin land – and while he was at it gathering reams of information in order to make his case for the new W.O. 

“It’s completely unique,” explains Meyer. “The most significant aspect is the altitude, then coupled with our proximity to the Atlantic – 35 kilometres as the crow flies – there is no other site like it in the country. 

Cool-climate credentials

Mother Rock White WInemaker

“It’s significantly cooler than the greater Swartland area, sometimes as much as 8 degrees Celsius, which means we classify ourselves as cool climate in a hot region.” The other distinctive aspect of the Piket-Bo-Berg is the soils: it’s the only section of the Swartland replete with Table Mountain sandstone. 

“They always say where they plant apples you can grow chardonnay and pinot noir – and there are a lot of apple trees around here.” Meyer has since planted 10-hectares to the aforementioned grapes as well as to sauvignon, chenin and others.

Because of this the geographical distinction is important, he says, “…if I am planting pinot and chardonnay with Swartland on the label, people will think I’ve gone mad. By deeming it Piket-Bo-Berg this tells the story of its high-altitude, cool-climate location.”

All about the site

Mother Rock White Winemaking

For the Paying the School Fees White 2023 Meyer says this can be interpreted as his process of learning about the terroir. “New World winemaking relies too heavily on variety, we’re blending to truly showcase the terroir –  it’s about the site, not the variety.”

He’s literally working from the ground up: “There are no reference points – no neighbour to go to. We’ll always do a white blend with the aim of learning along the way.” In line with this he says every year the blend will change slightly in terms of components as well as vinification. “This year we played around with skin contact, next year we may try direct press, or pick a bit riper; all in the pursuit of trying to understand how we approach this ward and site.”

Paying the School Fees White 2023

Mother Rock White Bottle

Golden from 22 months of skin-contact, the cuvée comprises sauvignon blanc (39%), chardonnay (23% ), grenache blanc (23%) and chenin (15%). Complex, arresting aromatics of thatch, fynbos flowers, orange-citrus and melon with a leesy undertow of salted-dough and waxy honey. Plumped with peaches and citrus the palate has a pleasing textural heft enlivened by a cool acidity, finishing in nutty resonance. 

Good to know Currently there is one other producer planning on using the designation. Winemaking couple Thinus and Hanneke Krüger have acquired a plot below Meyer and have begun planting vines.
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Disclaimer:

The Inside Guide has made every effort to ensure that the information in this post was correct at the time of publication. However, we do not assume any liability caused by errors, such as price, cost, time, and location.

Time of publication: 12 February 2025