Wine of the Week 34: Simonsig Cuvée Royale 2017

Simonsig Cuvee Royale

Simonsig’s flagship bubbly is ageing deliciously gracefully.

The bubbles of cap classique are so much part of the Stellenbosch wine scene today that it’s hard to remember back to 1971 when Frans Malan of Simonsig pioneered South Africa’s first bottle-fermented sparkling wine, their renowned Kaapse Vonkel. Cue the next generation… his son Johan, returning from a study tour to France in 1990, was determined to create a prestige cuvée worthy of ageing, comparable in quality to the wines he’d tasted in Champagne.

Simonsig Cuvee Royale 2017

“I think when you travel, you learn with your eyes and with your palate,” says Michael Malan, the third generation of the family to take over the reins in the Simonsig cellars. “We don’t want to be Champagne… we will always have a bit more sunshine in the bottle and in the glass, so our style of wine is way different, but we do want to replicate the quality.”

Single vineyard expression

Simonsig Cuvee Royale Vineyard

The Cuvée Royale is their prestige cuvée, a 100% chardonnay cap classique brut. “It’s a single vineyard expression blanc des blancs, and we work with the same vineyard each year, which has shown itself through the years to produce the best quality grapes, the best quality base wines,” says Michael.

It’s on shallow sandy soil with shale clay subsoil. “So this specific vineyard was planted in 1996, and it’s producing some really good base wines with complexity and a bit of weight. The vineyard is actually not that strong, but I think that contributes to the depth of flavour and the concentration of the wine.”

The perfect harvest

Simonsig Cuvee Royale Harvest

Simonsig only produces a Cuvée Royale in years when the vintage is good enough. “2017 was probably one of the best vintages in living memory,” Michael continues. “The growing conditions were perfect. I think it was the second year of the drought, so the vineyards were feeling a bit of stress, but not the acute stress of the following year.  The cooler nights and warmer days during the ripening period resulted in grapes with excellent acidity, low pH and good fruit formation.”

Years on the lees

Simonsig Cuvee Royale Cellar

They do three pressings of the grapes from this vineyard. “We only use the first 320 litres per tonne for the Cuvée Royale. So it’s really just the best of the best quality juice,” Michael says. The 2017 vintage was 100% tank fermented, and there is no malolactic fermentation on any of the Simonsig cap classiques. “It’s our house style. I think in South Africa, we’re already struggling with natural acidities, and we want to preserve the freshness,” he adds.

One of the most important aspects of the Cuvée Royale is the ageing on lees in the bottle for four to five years before release. “Sometimes we’re drinking Cuvée Royales that are 15 to 20 years old. And still exceptional. The age-worthiness of this prestige cuvée, and that time on the lees, is something unique,” says Michael. And he likes to remind people who are more used to ageing red wines, that when storing cap classique or any sparkling wine, you should stand the bottle upright. The wine mustn’t be in contact with the cork.

Simonsig Cuvée Royale 2017

Simonsig Cuvee Royale Bottle

With a beautifully fine mousse and mouth-delighting creaminess, the 2017 vintage speaks of apples with a hint of citrus, underlined with the yeasty biscuit notes of freshly baked bread. It’s refreshing and delicate, with just enough minerality and acidity, a true food wine for celebratory occasions. Michael recommends pairing it with oysters, as well as shellfish, crayfish, caviar or artichokes (and even pasta dishes). And as a partner to fruit-fresh desserts and sorbets.
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Disclaimer:

The Inside Guide has made every effort to ensure that the information in this post was correct at the time of publication. However, we do not assume any liability caused by errors, such as price, cost, time, and location.

Time of publication: 26 August 2024